Honestly, I see this take all the time and it's a bit lazy. Ezoic gets slammed for slow load times, but half the time that's because people slap it on a bloated site with 50 plugins and zero optimisation. If you're running 10k sessions on a recipe site, you're not exactly a high-value publisher - no wonder big networks don't fight for you.
the real issue isn't the ad network, it's that most recipe sites have garbage user experience and thin content. Ezoic's low barrier to entry is the only reason you're making anything at all. Calling it a "last option" ignores that Mediavine or Monumetric won't touch you until you hit way more traffic. So yeah, pick your poison: slow site with some revenue or clean site with zero revenue. Don't blame the network for your traffic problems.